In order of increasing hardcore-ness or amount of crud:
- boil some water in it + scotchbrite
- soak in vinegar + steel wool
- BBQ cleaner + powered drill or angle grinder + wire brush attachment (you can probably omit the BBQ cleaner, but it'll get things done faster)
If the area that is affected is large you are out of luck. the solvent that dissolves Rubber cement also dissolves the glue that hold the carpet to the backing. Try using a product called Citri-strip. A citris based paint stripper that is gooey enough to not soak down to the roots of the fibers. Using a shop vac to remove the messy goo with lots of water.
As Yishan Wong mentions, it's not worth a lot of extra effort to perfect this skill. On the other hand, you'll get better results if you load well, and it doesn't need to take any extra time to load well than to load poorly.
Think a little about how a dishwasher works. Water sprays up from the middle and the bottom. It soaks and sprays the stuff off your dishes. Then, it falls back into the bottom of the dishwasher.
Your dishwasher never actually fills with water, not if it's working right. It recirculates through for the cycle, then it's drained out and replaced for the next wash or rinse.
There's a heating element on the bottom, used for heating the water if it's not warm enough from the tap, and for the heated drying cycle.
Keep those things in mind, and these tips should be pretty obvious:
- Scrape large debris (bones, peels, uneaten food) into the trash or compost.
- Do not bother to pre-rinse or pre-wash, unless something is cooked on, in which case you may need to soak for a bit.
- Load as you go. Put stuff directly into the dishwasher, and never set it in the sink unless it needs to soak.
- Load the dishwasher so that the dishes face generally downward and inward. Plates generally go vertically.
- Leave enough space between the dishes that water can reach them. Offset or separate things like bowls and spoons, enough so they don't block the water to the next thing.
- Do not put things in a dishwasher that shouldn't go there. My short list is anything made of wood, sharp kitchen knives, non-stick or cast iron surfaces. Also keep out any ceramic items with details (including metallic bands) which are painted on, rather than glazed in.
- Discard or recycle plastic items if they deform in the dishwasher. The few that do are usually things like giveaway water bottles and semi-disposable leftovers containers—not really worth keeping, anyway.
- Place most other plastic items in the top rack, to keep them away from the heating element.
- Wash very large items by hand. They're not an efficient use of space, and can sometimes block the arms from spinning.
- Put taller items in the lower rack, smaller ones on top, provided your dishwasher is set up that way.
- Make sure the arms can spin freely as loaded. Push the racks into the dishwasher and try spinning the arms, to check that nothing is obstructing them.
- Use decent dish detergent. My current preference is Finish tablets. In any case, if you're loading reasonably well and not gettting results, try a different detergent before you try a different dishwasher.
- Run hot water to the sink before starting the dishwasher. If you want, collect the water you run in a watering can and use it to water plants.
- Use the air dry cycle for most efficient drying. You can prop the door open at the end of the cycle for faster results. Even heated drying is not meant to dry the puddles that collect in the bottom of mugs.
- It's ok to open the dishwasher during a cycle, if you discover one more thing you missed.
- Don't overload. So what if a dish goes next time, instead? On the other hand, for efficiency's sake, do wash full loads.
- Watch your results. If dishes aren't coming out clean, decide whether that has to do with loading, detergent, water quality, or some other factor, and correct next time.
There is a thread about it here: http://www.thriftyfun.com/tf9154…
– Soft Scrub seems to work for small amounts of graffiti sometimes
– Steel wool can work if you scrub long enough
– Oven cleaner sometimes helps
Keep hardwood floors in top condition with smart cleaning systems that will make caring for your floors and maintaining their good looks even easier.
Cleaning Hardwood Floors
The best method to clean wood floors depends on the type of sealant; most modern sealants are water-resistant.
Learn how to care for hardwood floors by using these natural cleaners and following these simple tips.
- Practice “damp mopping.” After saturating the mop with your chosen cleaning solution, simply wring it out as much as possible.
- Remember, you only want a minimal amount of liquid applied to the hardwood surface.
- Once completed, be sure there is no standing water as it could damage the flooring.
- For spills, clean them as quickly as possible to prevent possible staining or something more severe.
Quick Cleaning Tips
- Traffic levels can impact how often and with what methods the hardwoods in a room are cleaned. Be sure to take care and always start with the less aggressive approach.
- For quick touch-ups, sweep regularly using a dry dust mop or the soft brush attachment on the vacuum cleaner.
- Avoid using a standard broom, since the stiff, straw-like bristles could damage the flooring's surface.
DIY Cleaning Solutions
How do we clean wood floors? To achieve a natural clean using ingredients that don't contain the harmful toxins in most commercially-sold cleaning solutions, we recommend mopping your hardwood floors using a mixture of vinegar and water.
- Start with a weaker mixture and enhance the potency as needed. Over an extended period, vinegar may accelerate the dulling of your hardwoods.
- An alternative natural cleaning solution is warm water and dish soap (1/4 cup of dish washing liquid for a bucket of warm water).
- For spot cleaning needs, sprinkle baking soda on the affected area and scrub with a sponge. To ensure the area is thoroughly clean, rinse with warm water and dry. This is particularly effective on scuff marks and small stains.
I am a plumber and the only time I have used a drain cleaner was when I could not get my snake through the line. Always a last ditch effort, because I know drain cleaners are a temporary fix at best. Only use these products if the water is draining slowly, if totally clogged you will not get a good result unless the clog is very close, like in the commercials. Which is rare.
Most plastics, including melamine, are supposed to go on the top rack, if at all.
Some insulated travel cups and thermoses can't go in the dishwasher (e.g., Nissan).
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I think it is "La Colectiva." http://www.lacolectivasf.org/ I would love to know if anyone has used them and their experience!
I know Royal Cleaning Company, and Marvel Maids are two companies that associates of mine have used. In the past I've used http://www.commercialcleaningrat… to contract professional cleaners. I got a handful of free estimates and could find out which company was best for the job and my budget.